Home to cobblestone streets, ivy-draped buildings and intimate piazzas – the kind of place where locals still hang their laundry out the windows over kids playing football – the Trastevere neighbourhood feels like a snapshot of Rome before the touring crowds descended on the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain and Pantheon.
Located in the city’s southwest on an elbow of the Tiber River, Trastevere ticks all the boxes for a perfect stay in Rome: walkable laneways nearly devoid of cars, plenty of dining options, and easy access to the rest of the city. The neighbourhood is a short taxi away from major Roman attractions, including the Vatican City, with trams and buses readily available along Viale di Trastevere.
But perhaps the best thing about Trastevere is it’s lived-in, bohemian quality – a peek into an authentic slice of Roman living that stands apart from Central Rome or more upscale neighbourhoods like Prati.
That’s the reason why Maria Pasquale, an award winning Italian Australian food journalist and author of The Eternal City: Recipes and Stories from Rome, chose to settle here after moving to Italy to follow her roots.
“Trastevere feels gritty and beautiful at the same time,” says Maria. “The neighbourhood retains a strong sense of local identity, blending its medieval roots with a vibrant modern nightlife, attracting students, artists and travellers alike.”
“The locals here have heart and are proud Trasteverini. So proud in fact that they host an annual festival in July called La Festa de’ Noantri (Roman dialect for the festival of ‘us others’), which means keeping separate from the other Romans!”
Rome’s Jewish Ghetto
Trastevere is also where visitors will find the historic Jewish Ghetto, one of the world’s oldest ghettos, built in 1555 to segregate Jews from the rest of the city. Despite being destroyed and rebuilt, especially following the Jewish Holocaust of World War 2, the area is still home to kosher restaurants, pastry shops, synagogues and boutiques.
Walking food and history tours are especially popular in the Jewish Ghetto, and our team at FBI Travel can organise a private group tour if you’re interested. While exploring the narrow streets, look out for the gold cobblestones underfoot that serve as poignant reminders of the Jewish families who disappeared during the Holocaust.
Elsewhere around Trastevere
Maria recommends visiting Orto Botanico, the neighbourhood’s lush botanical gardens that serve as a tranquil escape from the bustling piazzas. Nestled on the slopes of the Janiculum Hill, it’s an ideal place to take a picnic sourced from Trastevere’s pizzerias and pastry shops, and wander among exotic plants, fountains and hidden paths.
Overlooking one of Trastevere’s most lively piazzas is Santa Maria in Trastevere, a minor Basilica that is often overlooked but shouldn’t be.
“[Santa Maria’s] spectacular glittering mosaics, dating back to the 12th century, are breathtaking,” says Maria. “It’s one of the oldest churches in Rome, embodying the neighbourhood’s deep connection to history and spirituality.”
Maria’s favourite places to eat
In Central Rome, restaurants and trattorias near major tourist attractions tend to hike their prices while offering questionable quality meals, but in Trastevere you’ll find authentic Roman dining at good prices.
Having scoured the city to research three books about Roman cuisine, these are Maria’s top places to eat in Trastevere:
Osteria der Belli: Tucked around the corner from Santa Maria Church is this family-run restaurant that spills out into the small piazza where street performers entertain diners. “Leo and the team here serve up local fare and Sardinian specialities too,” says Maria.
Eggs Roma: Red checkered tables have disappeared, replaced with cool blues and warm panel flooring at this light and bright café along Via Natale del Grande. Eggs offers a more modern take on the Roman trattoria, with a menu that flirts with local and seasonal ingredients.
I Supplì: Technically more of a street snack, Roman supplì (fried rice balls) are iconic and an essential eat for any visitor. Established in 1979, I Suppli has a tried and true roster of local favourites but also branches out with interesting creations depending on what is in season. It’s “a taste of Rome’s culinary heritage in handheld form,” says Maria.
La Norceria di Iacozzilli: Along Via Natale del Grande is this deli, one of the longest serving in the area, and the place where you’ll find locals chatting away with the owner while measuring out large wedges of parmesan.
Pasticceria Valzani: This historic pastry shop has been a fixture in Trastevere since 1925. Known for its rich torrone (nougat) and chocolate creations, it’s a delightful spot to indulge in a sweet treat with a nod to tradition.
Make It Happen
Our Professional Travel Advisors can help you book a dream holiday to Rome and beyond, including a stay near the Trastevere neighbourhood. We recommend:
Fly:
Qantas, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines, Emirates and Etihad all offer flights to Rome. Get in touch with our team to enquire about airfares.
Stay:
Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá, located in the heart of the Eternal City, is just 10 minutes by car or a 20 minute walk from Trastevere. It's also only a five-minute walk from St. Peter's Square and Basilica. This charming five-star hotel is surrounded by Mediterranean gardens, has a wonderful 1920s style pool, stunning views of Rome and a relaxing atmosphere.
Do:
Putting a twist on a well-loved classic, the Colosseum Underground Tour explore the tunnels and chambers where gladiators and wild animals were kept before battles.
If you're short on time, you can also explore the Trastevere area with an expert local guide and deluxe private vehicle on Abercrombie and Kent's half day tour of Trastevere or take an Authentic Roman Food Walking Tour of Trastevere with Project Expedition.
Want to explore Rome’s storied streets? Get in touch with one of our Professional Travel Advisors and we’ll arrange your flights, hotel, activities and more with a tailored itinerary.
NOTE: In 2025, the Catholic Church will be celebrating the Great Jubilee or ‘Holy Year’. Large events are scheduled throughout the year and hotels in large cities, with hotels selling out in advance. If you’re planning to visit Rome in 2025, get in touch with our team today to avoid missing out.