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My week in Bhutan

Writer: Michelle AdlerMichelle Adler
Punakha Dzong taken from across the river
Punakha Dzong

Professional Travel Advisor Michelle Adler recently spent a week in the tiny Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan. Most famous for the monastery of Paro Taktsang or Tiger's Nest, Bhutan is a wonderful country for nature lovers, walkers and trekkers and for those seeking a spiritual experience. Read on for Michelle's experience, top tips and hotel recommendations.


Thimphu

Lots of people attending the Thimphu Drubchen Festival
Thimphu Drubchen Festival

Descending into Paro Airport felt like I was about to touch the mountains. As we approached, the pilot reassured us with a warm announcement: “It’s OK to be close to the mountains – just enjoy the scenery”. And what a magnificent sight it was! The deep valleys dotted with villages and soaring peaks left me in awe.


After arriving at Paro Airport, we took a 1.5 hour drive to the capital, Thimphu, which is also the only capital city without any traffic lights. Thimphu is surrounded by forested mountains, temples, monasteries and prayer flags and is approx. 2,700m above sea level.


We attended the colourful Thimphu Drubchen Festival, which showcases the sacred masked dances dedicated to the protecting deity of Bhutan, Palden Lhamo. The dances are believed to possess the power to ward off evil spirits and invoke blessings.


An unexpected highlight was dining at the same restaurant where the King of Bhutan was enjoying his dinner!





We stayed at the Six Senses Thimphu – getting here was an adventure in itself! It was a challenging 45-minute drive along a rugged, unpaved road. On arrival, a beautifully crafted wooden door greeted us. When it opened, I was immediately struck by the breathtaking sight of the majestic mountains reflected in tranquil ponds. This spectacular entrance really set the tone for our stay in this serene escape.


A lady standing outside the Six Senses Thimphu hotel in Bhutan
Michelle at Six Senses Thimphu

The hotel has 25 villas, each with a beautiful large open space, bright airy rooms and a lovely balcony. The hotel restaurant Namkha has views of the Himalayan peaks, serves both traditional Bhutanese dishes and international specialties with the chefs using fresh vegetables from their organic garden. The wellness and spa area include an indoor pool, prayer and meditation pavilion and wellness experiences that ‘focus on bringing the body into balance, boosting the immune system and helping to open the mind and expand consciousness to aid spiritual healing’. There are also archery practice fields!


Top tip: I recommend staying in Thimphu for 3 nights.


Paro

A lady at the lookout for Paro Taktsang or Tiger's Nest in Bhutan
Michelle at Paro Taktsang (Tiger's Nest)

We drove back to Paro and participated in an evening ceremony where 108 butter lamps were lit to eradicate darkness and ignorance.


The next morning, we undertook a hike up to Paro Taktsang or Tiger’s Nest trek, a challenging but unforgettable adventure. We drove 20 minutes from central Paro to the main car park. Tigers Nest can only be accessed by hiking, with the round trip taking 4 to 7 hours with an additional hour to explore the monastery itself.


There is an option to take a horse up to the café which is located roughly halfway to the main lookout. Despite not riding a horse for years, I took this option! Once you reach the café, it’s a challenging 1.5 – 2 hour walk to the main viewpoint. This is at altitude and on an uneven path so I don’t recommend tackling it in the rain.


The views are incredible!


My top tips for this trek: I suggest to start early in the morning, bring hiking poles (which your hotel might provide), wear supportive hiking shoes or boots and dress in layers to adapt to the changing temperatures.



We stayed at Amankora, Arriving to the hotel is quite different – we were dropped off to take a 5 minute walk through a thick pine forest, fully immersing ourselves in nature before reaching the hotel entrance.


The hotel has 24 suites that beautifully blend rustic charm with contemporary design. There are LOTS of stairs. The main common area offers stunning views of snow-capped mountains.


A key highlight of staying here was making my own prayer flags with a monk and receiving blessings for my onward journey.


Punakha

108 Chorten Temple on the Dochula Mountain Pass in Bhutan looking out to the Himalaya
108 Chorten Temple

Punakha is a four-hour drive from Thimphu and takes the Dochula Mountain Pass. What a majestic journey this was! We were treated to dramatic views of the incredible Himalayan ranges and went past the striking 108 Chorten Temple.


Punakha is a picturesque town, known for its stunning landscapes, rich history and cultural significance. It also served as Bhutan’s capital until 1955 and remains an important administrative and religious centre. The climate is quite mild which means it would be a pleasant destination year-round but I recommend coming here in spring or autumn.



The key highlights of Punakha include:


Punakha Dzong: This majestic fortress is situated at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers. It's renowned for its stunning architecture and vibrant colours, often considered one of the most beautiful dzongs in Bhutan.


Cultural Heritage: Punakha is home to several important temples and monasteries, including Chimi Lhakhang, dedicated to the Divine Madman, and Kinhung Lhakhang, showcasing Bhutanese spirituality and art.


Natural Beauty: Surrounded by lush valleys, rice fields, and towering mountains, Punakha offers breathtaking views and opportunities for outdoor activities like hiking and rafting.

A lady standing beside the pool at the Six Senses Punakha hotel in Bhutan
Michelle at the Six Senses Punakha


We stayed at the Six Senses Punakha, which is set amidst vibrant rice fields. It felt quite tropical despite my weather app forecasting snow!


The accommodation is just lovely, combining rustic charm with modern comforts. There’s an outdoor pool with great views of the surrounding landscape, making it an ideal spot to relax and enjoy the natural beauty of Punakha.





Paro

We drove back to Paro and stayed at the Six Senses Paro which is perched within 12th-century stone ruins, surrounded by a thick forest and offers breathtaking views. The suites are bright and airy, featuring large windows and natural timber that seamlessly connect the indoors with the stunning outdoor landscape.


Dining here was a real highlight. There is an emphasis on amazing organic cuisine with plenty of vegetarian options available.


Summary:

Prayer flags in Bhutan

Bhutan is truly a gem, renowned for its dramatic landscapes and serene way of life. The pace is refreshingly tranquil and offers a sense of peace that’s hard to find elsewhere.


The people of Bhutan are known as some of the happiest in the world and their traditions and lifestyle are remarkable. It’s one of the cleanest and most organised countries I’ve ever visited. Rich in culture and tradition with its archery competitions, prayer flags adorning the hills and ancient temples and stupas, it feels like a place frozen in time.

 



Practical information:


Planning a trip to Bhutan:

  • Bhutan can only be visited with a tour operator. It’s not a country you can visit independently.

  • All tourists over the age of 12 entering Bhutan are required to pay a daily Sustainable Development Fee which is in addition to your accommodation. The fee is for maintaining the country’s cultural and environmental integrity.

  • A visa is required and the tour operator will organise this for you.

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Your FBI Travel Advisor can recommend the best tour operator and itinerary for you


A lady and a monk with offerings in Bhutan

How to get there:

Only two airlines fly into Bhutan – Drukair and Bhutan Airlines. We recommend flying to Bangkok, Singapore, Kolkata or Delhi to connect with a flight to Bhutan.


Dress code:

Casual dress is acceptable. If visiting temples, monasteries or festivals, wear clothing that covers your knees and arms. Shoes need to be removed before entering temples and monasteries.


Layering is recommended due to the changes in temperature.


Altitude & health:

Speak to your GP about how to handle the altitude and for any required travel vaccinations.


Best time to travel:

Bhutan is a year-round destination. Peak season and the best times to visit are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). These are popular festival seasons in Bhutan and also ideal for trekking and sightseeing.


If you are going to Bhutan to trek, we recommend avoiding the summer/monsoon season (June to August) as some routes can be closed due to dangerous and slippery trails.



Michelle travelled courtesy of Secrets of India, Taj Hotels, Six Senses and Aman.

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